Residents of northern New Mexico for more than 40 years, Don and Barbara Laine have traveled extensively throughout the Rocky Mountains and the Southwest, exploring the mountains and deserts with their always-curious dogs. The Laines have authored or contributed to a number of Frommer's travel guides, including Frommer's Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks and Frommer's Utah. They have also written Little-Known Southwest, New Mexico & Arizona State Parks, and Best Short Hikes in Arizona for The Mountaineers Books; and The New Mexico Guide for Fulcrum Publishing.

A Denver-based freelance writer, Eric Peterson has contributed to numerous Frommer's guides covering the American West, and has written Frommer's Montana & Wyoming, Frommer's Colorado, Frommer's Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks, and Ramble: A Field Guide to the U.S.A. Peterson also writes about travel and other topics for such publications as ColoradoBiz, Delta Sky, and the New York Daily News. In his free time, he's an avid camper and hiker, a lifelong Broncos fan, and a part-time rock star (at least in the eyes of his niece Olivia and nephews Mitch and Sam).

Jack Olson, a longtime resident of Denver, wanders the Rockies and the entire country as a freelance photographer and writer. He writes travel articles and supplies photographs for AAA magazines, and his photos have been seen in such publications as Backpacker, Audubon, Sierra, and National Geographic Books.

Shane Christensen has written extensively for Frommer's, including in Latin America, Europe, and the United States. Originally from California, he knows the American Southwest well and returns each year to the Grand Canyon to explore its wonders and ensure the accuracy of this guide. Shane has also held a variety of diplomatic assignments with the U.S. Department of State, and he is currently a research scholar and faculty advisor at Columbia University.

List of Maps xi

1 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO THE NATIONAL PARKS OF THE AMERICAN WEST 1

2 ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, UT 16

3 BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK, SD 31

4 BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK, TX 40

5 BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK, CO 54

6 THE BLACK HILLS: MOUNT RUSHMORE NATIONAL MEMORIAL, WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK, JEWEL CAVE NATIONAL MONUMENT & CUSTER STATE PARK, SD 61

7 BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK & GRAND STAIRCASE–ESCALANTE NATIONAL MONUMENT, UT 82

8 CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK, UT 98

9 CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK, UT 109

10 CARLSBAD CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK, NM 121

11 CHANNEL ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK, CA 132

12 CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK, OR 146

13 DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK & MOJAVE NATIONAL PRESERVE, CA 156

14 DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT, WY 173

15 GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT & WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK, AB 179

16 GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK, AZ 199

17 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WY 230

18 GREAT BASIN NATIONAL PARK, NV 255

19 GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE, CO 264

20 GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK, TX 271

21 JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK, CA 279

22 LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK, CA 292

23 MESA VERDE, HOVENWEEP, CHACO & OTHER ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES OF THE FOUR CORNERS REGION 300

24 MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, WA 314

25 NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK, WA 330

26 OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WA 345

27 PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL PARK, AZ 362

28 POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE, CA 370

29 REDWOOD NATIONAL & STATE PARKS, CA 379

30 ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, CO 388

31 SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK, AZ 405

32 SEQUOIA & KINGS CANYON NATIONAL PARKS, CA 415

33 THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK, ND 435

34 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, WY & LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD NATIONAL MONUMENT, MT 444

35 YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CA 477

36 ZION NATIONAL PARK & CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL MONUMENT, UT 505

37 FIELD GUIDE TO WESTERN WILDLIFE 523

38 AIRLINE, HOTEL & CAR RENTAL WEBSITES 529

Index 531