Madeleine Vionnet believed that "when a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too." Eschewing padding, stiffening, and anything that distorted the natural curves of a woman's body, she created designs that showed off a women's natural shape. While Vionnet remains famous for introducing the "bias cut" to the world, she is considered one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century. Founded in 1912, Vionnet was the first fashion house to create precirc;t-agrave;-porter designs from haute couture for sale in the American market. In the 1920s Vionnet created a stir by introducing the bias cut, a technique for cutting cloth diagonal to the grain of the fabric enabling it to cling to the natural curves of a woman's body and echo its fluidity of motion. Vionnet's use of the bias cut to create a sleek, flattering, look revolutionized fashion by integrating form and movement -- as well as comfort -- into her designs.Vionnet's designs dominated fashion in the 1930s setting trends with her sensual gowns worn by such stars as Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, and Greta Garbo. She fought for copyright laws in fashion and mentored later designers, passing on her principles of elegance, movement, architectural form, and timeless style. Madeleine Vionnet's sophisticated and sensual approach to couture remain a strong and pervasive influence on contemporary fashion. This gorgeously illustrated book features over 80 models photographed by Patrick Gries as well as original patterns and additional photographs by iconic fashion photographers such as Horst, Hoyningen-Huene, Steichen, and more.

Pamela Golbin is curator at the Museé des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and author of Valentino: Themes and Variations. Patrick Gries is one of France’s most celebrated photographers, covering everything from fashion to natural history.